Open Door

"You are that awareness, disguised as a person".
ECKHART TOLLE, Stillness Speaks


The fact that we reach the fort just before sunset is a bonus. The white cross throws a long, dark shadow over the roof as the light of the sinking sun sparkles on the surface of the water. Lined up at regular intervals, the large black canons point ominously seaward. The surrounding palm trees sway back and forth in the warm breeze and two dhows (African sailboats) can be seen passing each other on the far horizon.


Down in the courtyard, the bright green leaves of a huge almond tree contrast against the blue sky above.


The walls of each room lining the quadrangle are thick, and bright sunlight streams through the narrow slits and round portholes. Each room has a story to tell.


Dollar’s quiet but firm voice cuts through the silence. Named the Fort of Sao Joao, the building’s unusual star shape was decided by the Portuguese, he explains. Designed to accommodate up to 300 people in the days when this island was linked in with the slave trade, the dark, cramped lower chambers were used as slave holding points.

Dollar Karingiramambo, our Zimbabwean guide, is adept at weaving past and present into fascinating anecdotes and stories. But today the words aggravate me like an open wound.

I wonder off from the group with my camera.


The sounds of the words feel unnecessary and intrusive. Real communication after all, needs no words. I often wonder whether more caring is done for yourself and 'the other' when sitting, silently.

Just now, the shadows, the light, the vibration and the play of colours is more than enough.

Feeling takes over and the stillness is overwhelming....


Experiences like this remind me of how lucky I am. Just a moment of presence makes up for days spent in the pain of illusion.

These moments make me aware that clarity and confidence is more than possible, in fact, that anything else is short-changing myself.

The door is always open and beckoning for me to create this feeling in every moment of my life...